Ukrainian Vushka: Little Ear Dumplings and Mushroom Gravy

Ukrainian vushka, meaning “little ears,” are tiny, mushroom-filled dumplings traditionally served in a clear broth alongside borsch on Christmas Eve. I remember my grandmother spending hours meticulously crafting these delicate morsels, her hands moving with the practiced grace of generations. The aroma of simmering mushrooms would fill the house, a comforting promise of the festive meal to come. This recipe aims to recapture that warmth and bring the taste of a Ukrainian Christmas to your table.

Ingredients:

This recipe is broken down into three parts: the dumpling dough, the mushroom filling, and the mushroom gravy. Prepare for a labour of love, but the results are undeniably worth it!

DUMPLING DOUGH

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 egg yolk
• 1/2 cup evaporated milk or milk
• 1 teaspoon oil or melted butter

MUSHROOM FILLING

• 1/4 lb dried boletus mushrooms (porcini) or dried Italian mushrooms (porcini)
• 2 lbs fresh mushrooms, mature if possible (cremini, shiitake, or a mix)
• 4 onions
• 1 cup oil or 1/2 lb butter
• 2 teaspoons ground black pepper
• 3 teaspoons salt
• 1/2 cup dry breadcrumbs
• 1 lemon, juice of

MUSHROOM GRAVY

• 1 cup stock (vegetable or mushroom)
• 1 cup light cream
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch (optional, for thickening)
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Directions:

This recipe involves several steps, so read through carefully before you begin. The key to success lies in patience and attention to detail, especially when shaping the vushka.

VUSHKA (Little Ear Dumplings)

1. Combine and Rest: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Add the milk, egg yolk, and oil or melted butter. Mix until a shaggy dough forms. Let it rest for 5 minutes to allow the flour to hydrate.

2. Knead and Rest Again: Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 5 minutes until smooth and elastic. You can also do this in a food processor. Form the dough into a ball, cover it with a damp cloth or plastic wrap, and let it rest for at least 15 minutes. This rest period is crucial as it allows the gluten to relax, making the dough easier to roll out.

3. Roll and Cut: On a floured surface, roll out a third of the dough into a rectangle approximately 1/8 inch thick. It’s essential to roll from the center outward, turning the dough frequently, to ensure an even thickness. Slide your hand underneath the dough occasionally to prevent sticking. Lightly dust with flour, flip, and flour again.

4. Cut Squares: Using a sharp knife or pastry wheel, cut the rolled-out dough into 1-1/2 inch squares. Precision is key here for uniform vushka.

5. Fill and Fold: Place a scant teaspoon of the mushroom filling in the center of each square, being careful not to smear the edges. Fold the square diagonally to form a triangle and firmly press the edges to seal.

6. Shape the Ears: This is where the “little ears” come to life! Pinch together the two bottom corners of the triangle, forming a small, curved shape. Ensure the dough is securely bonded, or the filling will escape during cooking.

7. Rest and Repeat: Place the formed vushka on cookie sheets lined with towels and dusted with flour. This prevents them from sticking. Repeat the rolling, cutting, filling, and shaping process with the remaining dough. Roll out the scraps last, as this dough tends to be a bit tougher.

8. Cook: Bring 6-8 cups of water to a rapid boil in a large pot. Gently drop in 10-12 vushka at a time (don’t overcrowd the pot). Stir once with a wooden spoon to prevent sticking. Do not cover the pot.

9. Float and Cook: When the vushka float to the top, cook for an additional minute. Then, remove them with a slotted spoon and transfer them to a strainer to drain. Cool the cooked vushka on a lightly oiled plate to prevent them from sticking together.

10. Repeat and Store: Repeat the cooking process until all the vushka are cooked. Cover and set aside. At this point, the vushka can be frozen for later use. To freeze, arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Once frozen solid, transfer them to a freezer bag or container.

11. Reheat: To reheat frozen vushka, drop them directly into boiling water. Do not overcook; they are already cooked through. Heat until warmed through.

12. Serve: Traditionally, vushka are served in soup bowls with hot borsch poured over them. Place 4-5 vushka in each bowl.

MUSHROOM FILLING

1. Hydrate Dried Mushrooms: In a saucepan, cover the dried mushrooms with enough water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until tender, about 1-1/2 hours. Ensure the mushrooms remain submerged by adding more water as needed.

2. Prepare Fresh Mushrooms: While the dried mushrooms are simmering, wipe the fresh mushrooms clean with a damp towel (avoid washing them, as they will absorb too much water). Trim the stems and finely chop the mushrooms. Set aside.

3. Sauté Onions: Chop the onions and cook them in oil or butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat until softened and translucent.

4. Cook Fresh Mushrooms: Add the chopped fresh mushrooms to the skillet with the onions. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms release their moisture and then begin to brown.

5. Combine Mushrooms: Once the dried mushrooms are cool enough to handle, remove them from the liquid (reserve the mushroom broth for the gravy or soup). Chop the dried mushrooms finely and add them to the skillet with the fresh mushrooms and onions.

6. Season and Dry: Cook the mushroom mixture over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture is relatively dry. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

7. Finish Filling: Stir in the lemon juice and breadcrumbs. The breadcrumbs will help absorb any remaining moisture and bind the filling together. Remove from heat and continue stirring while cooling to allow steam to escape and prevent the filling from becoming soggy.

8. Yield: This recipe should yield approximately 1 quart of mushroom filling. This filling can be used to flavor rice for cabbage rolls and to make gravy (recipe included) and soup.

MUSHROOM GRAVY

1. Heat Stock: In a saucepan, heat the stock over medium heat.

2. Add Mushroom Mixture: Add 1 cup of the prepared mushroom mixture to the stock and bring to a simmer.

3. Add Cream: Stir in the light cream and heat through.

4. Season: Season to taste with salt and pepper.

5. Thicken (Optional): For a thicker gravy, whisk the cornstarch with a little of the cream to create a slurry. Gradually add the slurry to the hot gravy, stirring constantly, until the gravy thickens to your desired consistency.

6. Serve: This gravy is excellent with holubtsi (cabbage rolls), roasts, or served over toast points.

Quick Facts:

• Ready In: Approximately 3 hours (including preparation and cooking time)
• Ingredients: 18
• Serves: 4-6

Nutrition Information:

(Approximate values per serving)

• Calories: 1052.2
• Calories from Fat: 656
• Calories from Fat % Daily Value: 62% (72.9g)
  • Saturated Fat: 17.7g (88%)
• Cholesterol: 95.9mg (31%)
• Sodium: 2501.4mg (104%)
• Total Carbohydrate: 84.1g (28%)
  • Dietary Fiber: 6.7g (26%)
  • Sugars: 10.3g (41%)
• Protein: 21.7g (43%)

Note: Nutritional information is approximate and can vary based on specific ingredients and portion sizes.

Tips & Tricks:

• Dough Consistency: The dough should be smooth and elastic, but not sticky. If it’s too sticky, add a little more flour, a tablespoon at a time, until it reaches the desired consistency.
• Rolling Technique: Rolling the dough thin enough is crucial for delicate vushka. Work in small batches to prevent the dough from drying out.
• Sealing Edges: Ensure the edges of the dumplings are tightly sealed to prevent the filling from leaking out during cooking.
• Mushroom Broth: Don’t discard the liquid from the rehydrated dried mushrooms! This is a flavorful broth that can be used in soups, sauces, or to add depth to the mushroom gravy.
• Freezing: Freezing the vushka before cooking them slightly hardens the dough, helping them maintain their shape during boiling.
• Flavor Boost: Add a clove of minced garlic to the onions when sautéing for an extra layer of flavor in the mushroom filling.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):

1. Can I use different types of mushrooms? Absolutely! Feel free to experiment with different combinations of fresh mushrooms, such as shiitake, oyster, or morels. The key is to use mature mushrooms for the best flavor.
2. Can I make the dough ahead of time? Yes, you can prepare the dough a day in advance. Wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and store it in the refrigerator. Bring it to room temperature before rolling it out.
3. Can I freeze the cooked vushka? Yes, cooked vushka freeze very well. Arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet, freeze until solid, and then transfer them to a freezer bag or container.
4. How long can I store the mushroom filling in the refrigerator? The mushroom filling can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
5. Can I use water instead of milk in the dough? While you can use water, milk (or evaporated milk) provides a richer and more tender dough.
6. What if my dough is too dry? If your dough is too dry and crumbly, add a tablespoon of milk (or water) at a time until it comes together.
7. Can I add herbs to the mushroom filling? Fresh herbs like thyme, parsley, or dill would be a delicious addition to the mushroom filling.
8. Can I make this recipe vegetarian/vegan? This recipe is vegetarian. To make it vegan, substitute the butter for oil, and use non-dairy milk/cream.
9. Why are my vushka falling apart when I boil them? This is likely due to the edges not being properly sealed. Make sure to press the edges firmly together when shaping the vushka.
10. Can I use store-bought mushroom filling? While homemade is always best, you can use store-bought mushroom filling in a pinch. Just be sure to taste it and adjust the seasoning as needed.
11. What is the best way to reheat the gravy? Gently reheat the gravy in a saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally, until warmed through. Add a splash of stock or cream if it becomes too thick.
12. Can I add meat to the mushroom filling? While traditionally vegetarian, you could add some finely diced cooked bacon or ham to the mushroom filling for a richer flavor.
13. How do I prevent the vushka from sticking together after boiling? Tossing the cooked vushka with a little olive oil or butter will help prevent them from sticking together.
14. What is the best way to serve vushka? They are traditionally served in borsch (beet soup).
15. What is the origin of Vushka and its cultural significance? Vushka is a staple in Ukrainian cuisine, particularly during the Christmas Eve feast called “Sviata Vecheria” (Holy Supper). The mushrooms symbolize the bounty of the earth and the vegetarian dishes reflect a period of fasting before Christmas.